Pool Equipment
Cues, and their Care
The cue stick is what carries a player's wishes to the game. Its importance,
therefore, cannot be overstressed. You are advised to find a cue you like, and
take care of it; and it will take care of you.
Figure 1 |
The weight of a 57-inch (1448-mm) regulation cue can vary from 11 to
22 ounces (312 to 624 gm). but most are 17 to 21 ounces (482 to 595 gm).
There is no fast rule on what weight is best for a person. This question
has to be answered individually through trial and error.
Most well-made cues have shafts of hard, straight-grain maple, chosen
for its stable and warp-resistant characteristics. The butt sections are
usually of a heavier wood. Woods commonly used are rosewood, ebony, walnut
and birdseye maple.
The four prongs or 'points' on many cues are not merely decorative.
They provide a greater holding surface for the glue, and make the cue
stronger structurally. They also serve to absorb and dissipate the shock
generated, when the tiny cue tip strikes the ball. Without the prongs,
a cue might feel somewhat like a baseball bat, when held the wrong way.
Many cues also have vari-coloured wood inlays at the prongs. These are
different types of softer woods. Besides being decorative, they provide
extra shock-absorbing qualities for the cue.
The 'balance' of a cue is often referred to, but seldom understood. A
finely-balanced cue will have its balance point 18 to 20 inches (457 to
508 mm) from the butt end of the cue. Although more difficult to detect,
but still important, a well-balanced cue will have its weight distributed
evenly along its length. The taper will also be even and sure. A well-balanced
cue will give you a smoother, easier stroke, with greater 'feel' and control.
A new player once exclaimed, upon taking his first shot with a good cue,
"This feels like power steering!" ... and it does.
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Ferrule:
The ferrule on a cue is primarily to absorb shock. Without it, the cue end would
'spread'. Ferrules may be made of ivory, plastic or fibre. Ivory is not particularly
any better than plastic or fibre, but it provides a classy 'look' to the knowing
eye. Some breakage is also common with ivory; so, for this reason, plus its
great cost, almost all cues today are equipped with plastic or fibre ferrules.
Jointed Cues:
Jointed cues are designated for the player who desires a personal cue, which
he can take wherever he goes. All top-quality cues are jointed, but all jointed
cues are not of top quality.
Jointed cues will generally have fancier butt treatments than one-piece cues.
Wrappings of nylon, leather, or Irish linen are used widely. Intricate hand
carvings and mother-of-pearl inlays are also seen. Besides eye-appeal, these
various treatments give the player a better grip on the cue, and help to compensate
for moisture from the player's hand. Irish linen is the most popular wrap among
the top pros. It has the unique property of always 'feeling' the same, whether
you are playing in a humid room in the tropics, or in a frigid northern city.
Irish linen is costly, and found mostly only on the very expensive cues.
A player should avoid, whenever possible, breaking with his personal
jointed cue. The great shock on the cue can only weaken and loosen the joint,
loosen the ferrule, and flatten the tip. Greatest accuracy is not required on
an open break, and a house cue will usually do fine.
Jointed cues should be kept in specially-made carrying-cases. The case will
protect the cue from damage, and help to protect it from warping. Cases are
not expensive for what they do, and most dealers carry a large selection.
Figure 2 |
Cue tips are not usually given the attention they deserve. Players, who
have never maintained their cue tips, are always surprised at the effect
a good tip has on their game.
Tips come in tan or blue 'chrome' leather, with both having similar
playing qualities. Thickness is one measure of a good tip, along with
the right texture.
A good tip should be:
A. Properly crowned.
B. Resilient, yet firm.
C. Slightly 'roughed'. D.
Well chalked.
The proper crown on the tip (Figure 2) is necessary for the fullest
possible contact on the cue ball. Simple cue tip crowning tools do the
best job for this purpose.
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Imported tips (usually from France) have many advantages over the common American-made
tips. The hides are chosen far more carefully, and only the finest parts of
those chosen are used. The tips are actually pressed by hand, one at a time.
This ensures that each tip will have uniform texture, and will not spread or
flatten. A fibre backing is laminated to the tip as another spreading preventive.
Tips made in this fashion will hold their shape, last much longer, and play
better, than machine-made, massed-produced tips.
Cue Tip Replacement:
1. Prepare the cue end, by sanding off old glue and leather remnants. A cut
tip sander is best for this, but a sanding block, used carefully, will do. Note:
It is important that the prepared cue end be absolutely flat.
2. Prepare the cue tip, by roughing up the smooth back on sandpaper. Make three
or four cross-cuts on the tip back with a sharp knife.
3. Apply an appropriate glue or cement, and let it dry for a few minutes, until
the glue is tacky.
4. Position the tip on the cue, and press lightly, until the glue beads at the
edges. Secure it lightly with a cue tip clamp. Note: Do not force all the glue
out by pressing too hard on the tip.
5. When the glue is dry, trim any excess glue and leather, by stroking the shaft
and tip with fine sand-paper. Finish with fine steel wool. Note: It is important
that the sides of the finished tip be absolutely flush with the sides of the
cue.
6. If the tip is much bigger than the cue end, trim it by inverting the cue
on a working surface, holding firmly, and cutting the excess off with a sharp
knife. Be careful to hold the knife blade flat against the shaft, so that the
cuts will follow the line of the cue shaft. Aftr trimming with the knife, finish
off, as in step 5.
7. Shape the tip into a proper crown with a crowning tool or sand-paper. Be
careful, when shaping the crown on your tip, to leave a sharp, definite shoulder
at least 1/8th inch (3 mm) above the ferrule (Figure 2).
Cloth Replacement
Bed Cloth
Figure 1 |
Lay the bed cloth over the top of the bed, with the playing surface uppermost.
Leave enough cloth at the head and the left side of the table
for tacking into the bed. Leave the surplus cloth hanging over the right
side and the foot of the table. Tacking can be done with ordinary
tacks, or with a hand stapler.
Tack the cloth to the bed at (1) with two tacks, about 2 inches (50 mm)
apart.
Next, stretch the cloth across the table, and tack at (2) with two tacks,
about 2 inches (50 mm) apart (Figure 1).
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Figure 2 |
Stretch the cloth from (1) to (3), and tack to the bed, at the left side
of the table.
Next, stretch the cloth across from (3), and pull it from (2), tacking
the cloth at (4) (Figure 2).
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Figure 3 |
On the left side, stretch the cloth from (1) towards the side pocket,
and tack it at (5).
Repeat, stretching the cloth from (3), and tacking it at (6).
On the right side, stretch the cloth across the table from (5), and
towards the side pocket from (2), and tack it at (7).
Repeat, stretching the cloth from (6), and towards the side pocket from
(4), tacking it at (8) (Figure 3).
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Figure 4 |
Cut a short slit in the cloth, in the centre of the side pocket opening
(9), and pull the cloth downwards, with your grasp above the slit, and
tack it below the pocket opening.
Stretch the cloth across the table from (9). Repeat the pocket operation
at (10) (Figure 4).
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Figure 5 |
At the head of the table, tack the cloth at (11). Maintain a uniform
overhang of cloth.
Stretch the cloth from ( 11) towards (12), and tack it along the bed,
maintaining an even amount of cloth at the head end.
Stretch the cloth from (11) to the foot end, and tack it at (13).
Stretch the cloth from (12) and (13) towards (14), and tack it along
the bed (Figure 5).
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Figure 6 |
Tack the entire left side (15), with the tacks 2 inches (50 mm) apart.
Keep an even margin of cloth.
Next, complete the tacking of the head end (18).
Now stretch the cloth towards the foot end of the table, and
tack it (17).
Stretch the cloth across to the right side of the table, and tack it
(18) (Figure 6).
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Figure 7 |
Stretch the cloth into the corner pockets, and tack it. Trim off all
excess cloth, even below the bottom of the bed (20) (Figure 7).
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Cushion Cloth (Tables with fixed cushions)
(For tables with feather strip construction.)
1. Prepare Rails:
Figure 8 |
Figure 9
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Carefully remove the old feather strips, and save them for re-use (Figures
8 & 9).
Note: The nap on the side rails runs from the head to the foot.
The nap on the head and foot rails runs from left to right,
as viewed from the head end of the table.
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2. Install Feather Strips:
Figure 10 |
A. With the rail face upwards, place new cloth on the rail, with the
playing surface downwards. Centre the cloth on the rail, with approximately
4 inches (100 mm) of cloth at each end, and ½ inch (13 mm) of cloth
beyond the feather strip slot (Figure 10).
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Figure 11 |
B. For the corner pockets, tap the feather strip into place, except for
3 inches (75 mm) at each end. Start approximately 2 inches (50 mm) from
the end of the feather strip, and pull the cloth towards the rubber cushion,
until the edge of the cloth is approximately ¾ inch (19 mm) from
the end of the feather strip. Tap the feather strip into place (Figure
11).
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Figure 12 |
C. For the side pockets, start approximately 3 inches (75 mm) from the
end of the rail, and pull the cloth towards the rubber cushion, until
the edge of the cloth is approximately ½ inch (13 mm) from the
end of the feather strip. Tap the feather strip into place (Figure 12).
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Figure 13 |
D. Pull the cloth tight, and tap the feather strip into place. Then trim
the cloth along the cushion side of the feather strip. Fold the cloth
over the cushion, and tap the full length of the feather strip flush with
the rail cap (Figure 13).
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3. Tack Cloth:
Figure 14 |
A. Pull the cloth tightly downwards, and tack it with four tacks along
the bottom rail. Pull the cloth tightly over the end of the rail, and
tack it with three tacks in the groove back of the cushion reinforcing
pad (Figure 14).
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Figure 15 |
B. For the side pockets, stretch the cloth firmly over the nose of the
cushion towards the bottom, without distorting the cushion's shape. Tack
the cloth to the rail bottom for approximately 2 inches (50 mm) from the
pocket opening (Figure 15).
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Figure 16 |
C. Snip the cloth at the nose, and pull a small strip down into the groove.
Tack it in place, as shown. Then snip the excess cloth, leaving enough
for a small fold at the top, as shown (Figure 16).
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Figure 17 |
D. Hold the small fold at the top in place, then fold the entire piece
over. Tack it at the bottom of the rail with three tacks and a further
three tacks at the groove. Stretch the surplus cloth tightly over the
cushion, and tack it at the bottom of the rail, starting at the centre,
and working towards the ends. Space the tacks about 2 inches (50 mm) apart.
Be sure that the cloth is snug, but not tight enough to alter the shape
of the cushion (Figure 17).
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Figure 18 |
E. Trim the excess cloth from the rail (Figure 18).
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Cushion Cloth (Tables with removable cushions)
Figure 19 |
1. Firstly, remove the old cloth and all the old staples. Be careful
to note how the cloth has been applied. It will be helpful to you in the
replacement of the new covering. Cut the cloth approximately 6 inches
(150 mm) longer than the rail, and allow the ends to extend about 3 inches
(75 mm) over each end of the rail, as in Figure 19.
Staple the cloth to the top edge of the back of the rail, starting and
stopping the staples about 3 inches (75 mm) from the ends. The cloth should
be allowed to lap over the back about ½ inch (13 mm), and stretched
in the length, while driving staples about ¾ inch (19 mm) apart.
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Figure 20 |
2. Secondly, pull the cloth tightly around the front of the rail, and
staple it to the bottom edge of the back of the rail in the same manner
as in Step 1. If the cloth is too wide, the extra material can be trimmed
off after the second stapling operation. This trim should be about ¼
inch (6 mm) from the staples, as shown in Figure 20.
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Figure 21 |
3. For the corner pockets, stretch the cloth over the angled face of
the rail, and staple it to the back, allowing small even wrinkles, as
shown in Figure 21, on the back side. Note: Care should be taken to stretch
the cloth before wrapping it around to the back side, so that the sharp
part of the angle cut will not tear or cut the cloth.
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Figure 22 |
4. For the side pockets, finish stapling the back edge, and slit the
cloth, as shown in Figure 22.
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Figure 23 |
Pull the front section over the nose of the rail tightly, and staple
it to the back side. Snip the excess material off, leaving enough for
a small fold, which should be pulled down across the front, and stapled
to the bottom of the rail, as shown in Figure 23.
Be sure that all excess cloth is snipped off, to allow the cushion rail
to set tightly, when fastened on to the top rail and bed.
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Adapted from 'Minnesota Fats on Pool'
© Minnesota Fats Enterprises 1976
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